23 May 2009

A sad day for Korea

The suicide of former Korean president Roh Moo Hyun this morning is a national tragedy. The event became a lead story in the international news. International media reports of Roh's passing reflect the poor state of foreign news reporting. International news sources quote from news wires or overseas correspondents who get their information from local journalists. The message given by the BBC and others sources is that Roh's career was the story of an idealist who turned corrupt once he gained power. It's a simple story to convey -- but it's oh so wrong.

Roh was a politician so he was naturally a divisive figure. It seems the media has simply tried to split the different between his supporters and opponents and describe him as a controversial figure, which is not much of a description. The BBC introduces him this way:
With his relative youth, lowly beginnings and promises to root out endemic political corruption, he seemed when he took power in 2003 to be the new start the country needed. But his term in office was a rollercoaster ride. His Uri party was hit by scandal and in-fighting, and there was fierce public opposition to several of his policies. He was even suspended early in 2004, after parliament voted to impeach him over a breach of election rules, but the Constitutional Court later overturned the move and he was reinstated....
Ironically, it was scandal and political infighting that also blighted Mr Roh's time in office.
That's not an adequate description of his presidency. In fact, it is downright misleading. Roh was far from a scandalous president. He was more like a boring one. His impeachment in 2004 was an effort by the conservative opposition to oust him by charging him with violating the strange Korean election law that prohibits the president from endorsing candidates for the National Assembly. The move was widely seen as illegitimate, as evidenced by the tens of thousands of Koreans who took to the streets to demand his reinstatement. In the subsequent general elections the conservatives were punished severely by the electorate for their attempt. 

The current corruption case opened only in the last several months. While the prosecution has been unable to trace where all of the money went and how it was used, there is no sign that the businessman who gave funds to Roh's wife and aide received any benefit in return. At worst, the people around Roh made some serious errors of judgment. Regardless, there is little doubt that he is the South Korean president who least abused his power. 

So, to say that he was an idealist corrupted by power, as the newswire suggests, is unfair. Roh does not deserve that obituary. It was precisely that line of reporting in the Korean media which drove him to humiliation. However, this is not to say that his presidency was without problems. He attempted to undertake many reforms but in many areas he was rebuffed. He tried to move the administrative capital out of Seoul but the plan was crushed. He tried to separate the major broadcasters from politicians and failed. At other times, he made perhaps unnecessary steps to take property away from descendants of collaborators with Japanese colonial rulers. He couldn't figure out what to do with large numbers of graduates who couldn't find work. He continued the "sunshine policy" of his predecessor, Nobel laureate Kim Dae Jung, but remained vague on concrete steps toward unification with North Korea. Several policies made him unpopular with specific groups: as a left of center politician, his increases of property taxes irked many well-to-do families. 

Roh's difficulties and shortcomings were political and not related to his integrity. He remained committed to his goals but he faced problems in making many policies. Katong Couple hopes Roh is remembered that way.

What are the implications of this event? It is indeed momentous that he was driven to suicide by public humiliation. Something is deeply flawed in the Korean judicial system. Prosecutors went hard after Roh Moo Hyun. Clearly, suspected bribery involving a president should be investigated. But the prosecution was zealous, expending massive resources on a very public investigation. The problem is that the prosecution was politicized. Prosecutors appear to have believed they would be rewarded if they went after Roh. President Lee could have stopped them, but why would he? The episode provided a nice distraction from economic problems and helped discredit the opposition. 

The media, too, did its part to play up the case. It certainly didn't hurt that President Lee, unlike Roh, is proving to be a friend of the mainstream, corporate-controlled media. Newspaper publishers could have stepped up and printed editorials urging the government to focus on reviving the economy or could have given less press to the case against Roh. But they did not. All of this ensured that Roh would be alienated and humiliated. (On Global Voices, Hyejin has covered government efforts to regulate the Internet. A few celebrities in recent years of committed suicide and the government blames nasty anonymous comments left online for the humiliation which caused those deaths. Here we see that newspapers and television broadcasters can create the same kind of humiliation.)

The case reflects the inability of the judiciary (and the media) to distinguish between major and minor infractions of law. Infractions committed by Roh pale in comparison to the abuses of the authoritarian presidents of the past. There are several questions Koreans and their lawmakers need to ask themselves. How can we monitor abuses of power without allowing that process to become political? Do we really want laws which can lead to a president being impeached for simply stating his political preferences? While politics is competitive in Korea, the legal infrastructure to protect democracy remains under construction. The national tragedy of Roh's death is that the prosecution, the media, and the current administration could have made other choices and still upheld the spirit of competitive politics. 

26 April 2009

New bookshop in S'pore

Today we attended the launch of a new bookshop in Singapore. GOHD Books, located in a cozy second-floor space on Serangoon Road near Lavender, sells new and used books and is also a venue for events. 

GOHD Books is the creation of Deyana Goh, a recent NUS Political Science graduate who opted to follow her dream of opening a bookshop and community space. It's great to see one of our graduates trying a new venture and following her passion. And Deyana's passion certainly shows. During the informal launch, she bounced around the shop, chatting with visitors, introducing people to each other, and refilling drinks. 

Deyana has a nice selection of books -- many were of interest at least to us -- and is continuing to build her collection. She has a displayed a friend's artwork on the walls and given the shop a pleasant ambience. GOHD Books is a welcome addition to the local bookshop scene. 


23 April 2009

Travel books

I recently read *Children of Kali* by Kevin Rushby. It's a gripping, entertaining travel essay on crime and the mythology surrounding it in India. Really, it reads like a research journal. The first ten pages set up the problem brilliantly and impel you to follow Rushby's journey for answers. After discovering Rushby, I'm inspired to make a short list of some favorite travel books.

In no particular order... 

*William Dalrymple, City of Djinns
History and daily life in Delhi
*Peter Hessler, River Town
About learning to live in China
*Richard Halliburton, The Famous Adventures of Richard Halliburton
A wealthy American who zipped around the world in the 1920s and 1930s -- and died seeking adventure. 
*Vikram Seth, From Heaven's Lake
Two months overland from western China to Nepal. Far too eloquent for description of merely a summer vacation for one student. 
*Tim Severin, The Spice Island's Voyage. 
Follows Alfred Russel Wallace's travels in what is now eastern Indonesia.
*Nigel Barley, The Duke of Puddle Dock
Retells the life of Stamford Raffles by visiting the places he stayed. Barley's book on Brooke, the "white rajah" of Sarawak is perhaps even better.
*Ch'oe Pu, A Record of Drifting (P'yohaerok 표해록)
Travelogue (partially translated into English) by a 15th century Korean administrator who accidentally floats off to China. 
*Paul Theroux, Riding the Iron Rooster (or anything, really)
This one is about a trip on China's rails in the 1980s. 
*Jason Roberts, A Sense of the World: How a Blind Man Became History's Greatest Traveler
Not really a travel book but about an amazing 19th century traveler. 
And Rushby certainly belongs on this list. 

19 April 2009

Japanese Cemetery Park

Today we joined a group led by Preetam Rai to the Japanese Cemetery Park, located in a quiet residential area on Chuan Hoe Ave. just off of the junction of Yio Chu Kang Rd and Philip. 

The cemetery was used up until the end of the war for the Japanese community in Singapore. There are many interesting graves here. Many Japanese women who served as prostitutes are buried here. In fact, according to the signboard, the cemetery was established by a man who was a Japanese brothel owner and palm planter. 

Most of the people buried here are soldiers who died in Singapore. Below you can see a tomb for one group of them. Someone appears to have paid respects at this tomb...


The first Japanese resident of Singapore is also buried here. His tomb has a ship's wheel carved on the front (and a door in the back). Yamamoto Otokichi, also known as John M. Ottoson, was a sailor who shipwrecked off of the Americas and then proceeded to wander the world. He moved to Singapore in 1862.


The park is also home to an inordinate number of lizards. Many, like the one below, posed on top of the graves. 
Another interesting figure buried here is a man known as the "Tiger." Tani Yutaka worked as a spy for the Japanese in Malaya in the 1930s. I wonder if perhaps he was the inspiration for a similar character in Noel Barber's novel, Tanamera.

18 April 2009

Joo Chiat walk

Among the pleasures of living in Katong are Friday night walks in Joo Chiat. The street is full of people. Men, each with a girl at his sat, crowd around the plastic tables along the walkway. Music thumps out of bars with names like "The Web" (where the theme is more Halloween than internet). Vietnamese bar girls shake incense sticks at wall-mounted shrines. Drunken friends greet each other shouting Hokkien curses. In between the bars and food stalls, rhythmic chanting comes from a room for worshipping Guan Yin.  

Turnover appears high among the shops on Joo Chiat. The current fad is for Vietnamese food and I count four Vietnamese stalls between Dunman Rd. and Changi Rd. Not many other areas in Singapore can claim so many Vietnamese stalls. Upgrading in Joo Chiat has caused some of the old food stalls to disappear and new, air-conditioned places to take over. But the area will hopefully not gentrify too quickly.    

Joo Chiat, by the way, is named after Chew Joo Chiat, an early 20th century businessman who owned the land in the area. Philip Chew, a great-grandson of Chew Joo Chiat, maintains an excellent blog on the neighbourhood and his ancestor. 

08 April 2009

Trip to Bandung

At the end of March Air Asia opened a direct flight from Singapore to Bandung. We got return fare for S$90 each (all included). This route will open up Bandung, which is already a major destination within Indonesia, for those in Singapore. The city has all the infrastructure for visitors, because of all the Jakarta people driving in on weekends, but has few foreign tourists.

Even though everything we read said Bandung is now a big city, we found it to still have a small-town feel. Even though there are jams on the streets, the roads themselves are narrow and tree-lined. One can get far walking. Most of the old colonial buildings are gone or in a state of disrepair but the city is decorated by locals' innate artistic sense.


Here is some art for sale on the street, with political posters in front. We visited a few weeks before the elections, so posters for probably hundreds of different candidates were everywhere. Boys lounge about the streets playing guitar, sometimes trying to get donations from people stuck in traffic. 

Bandung has a indoor/outdoor shopping malls, like this one called Ciwalk. The crowd is gathered to watch a group of Bandung children dressed in Balinese costume playing the violin. Not the most obvious combination. 


We walked through a simple neighborhood which was bursting with children. On one side, this neighborhood is separated from the shopping malls and upscale houses by a stream. 

Bandung is at a higher elevation, so has tea plantations, strawberry farms, and also hot springs. We visited one of the nearby craters. 


At the creator, there is an explanation of volcanic eruptions occur. The explanation uses the analogy of a collusion between a truck and a sedan....

The airport in Bandung is tiny and is used by airlines like Sriwijaya and Linus.  

But in the little waiting lounge coffee is served in mugs.

24 January 2009

A walk in Hong Kong

I recently took a walk on Hong Kong island, from Wan Chai to Happy Valley, which was suggested by National Geographic

The walk starts at the Tai Yuen Market...

And continues past the old Hong Kong post office. This building was constructed in 1912 or 1913.  

This blue building is also quite old, and has terraces which apparently used to be common. 

The Pak Tai Temple next door is 140 years old, quiet, and very pleasant.


The walk takes you past a Sikh Temple -- and here we have a Sikh in the foreground and the Muslim cemetery in the background.

Turning the bend in Queen's Road East takes you toward a cluster of four cemeteries: the Muslim cemetery, Catholic cemetery, Hong Kong cemetery, and the Parsee cemetery. 

Here's a Parsee tombstone. I wonder why they also use Latin...

In the Catholic cemetery there are many Chinese, Portugese, as well as Eurasians such as this family.

The Muslim cemetery is nothing like the ones we've seen in southeast Asia. There is plenty of writing and in several languages, including Chinese, Arabic, and English. Here's the grave of a Chinese woman who apparently married a Muslim man. 

Here's a Muslim man who seems not to be Chinese, yet his gravestone is written entirely in Chinese. Even the dates of his birth and death are according to the Chinese calendar. Did he really think of himself as someone born in the 12th year of the reign of Tongzhi? 


Some rules for visiting the Muslim cemetery. The first two are most interesting and reflect the considerations of Muslims living in a largely Chinese society.